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The Dotted Universe of Yayoi Kusama: Art, Fashion and Infinity

Written by Team Maison Sia
Reviewed By Vratika Gupta
The Dotted Universe of Yayoi Kusama: Art, Fashion and Infinity - Maison SIA

Few contemporary artists have captured the world’s imagination quite like Yayoi Kusama. Born in Matsumoto, Japan, in 1929, Kusama transformed personal struggles into a universal language of art. From an early age, she experienced hallucinations: fields of dots multiplying endlessly, walls covered in nets, flowers dissolving into patterns that seemed infinite. What began as a frightening condition became the seed of her lifelong philosophy: art as a way to confront fear, dissolve the self and connect with the cosmos.

By the time she entered her nineties, Kusama was celebrated worldwide as the “Princess of Polka Dots,” her works ranging from immersive rooms and monumental pumpkins to sculptures, paintings and performances.

All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins (2016)

Why Polka Dots and Infinity Mirrors?

Dots were more than playful motifs in Kusama’s universe. They became her philosophy of life. In her 2011 autobiography ‘Infinity Net’, she wrote: “Our earth is only one polka dot among a million stars in the cosmos.” For Kusama, dots symbolized both the microscopic and the infinite, linking human existence to the vastness of the universe. By covering entire rooms, canvases and even people with dots, she explored what she called “self-obliteration,” a way to merge with infinity.

The Infinity Mirror Rooms—Phalli’s Field, first created in 1965, grew directly out of this vision. By using mirrors and lights, Kusama reproduced the endlessness she saw in her hallucinations. Those who stepped into these mirrored chambers were surrounded by infinite reflections, experiencing the same boundlessness Kusama felt as a child.

L: Infinity Mirror Room—Phalli’s Field in Floor Show, Castellane Gallery, New York (1965)
R: Dots Obsession, Infinity Mirrored Room Installation. Les Abattoirs, Toulouse, France (1998)

Infinity Rooms: Stepping Into Another Universe

Among her most famous works were the Yayoi Kusama Infinity Rooms. At The Broad museum in Los Angeles, Infinity Mirrored Room—The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away (2013) dazzled with thousands of LED lights, while Longing for Eternity (2017) offered a more intimate yet equally mesmerizing experience. Both became cultural landmarks, with the museum even introducing a 30-second selfie rule to ensure people engaged with the art rather than only photographing it.

In India, Kusama reached a milestone when the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC) presented Infinity Mirrored Room—The Eternally Infinite Light of the Universe Illuminating the Quest for Truth (2020), one of her largest Infinity Rooms to date. The installation marked a significant moment for contemporary art in India, bringing her cosmic vision to South Asian audiences.

L: Infinity Mirrored Room―The Eternally Infinite Light of the Universe Illuminating the Quest for Truth at NMACC, India (2020)
R: Infinity Mirrored Room—The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away at The Broad, Los Angeles  (2013)

Global Installations and Legacy

Kusama’s installations appeared across the world. At New York’s David Zwirner Gallery, mirrored spheres and spot-covered tulips transformed Chelsea’s art scene. Denmark’s Louisiana Museum of Modern Art staged a six-decade retrospective of her work.

Her iconic yellow Pumpkin sculpture at Naoshima Island, Japan, became a national symbol of contemporary art, while works like Narcissus Garden, first staged at the 1966 Venice Biennale, were reintroduced in new contexts worldwide.

L: Pumpkin sculpture at Naoshima Island, Japan
R: Narcissus Garden in Venice Biennale, Italy (1966)

Kusama and Fashion: Art Beyond Galleries

Kusama also crossed the boundary between art and fashion. Her collaborations with Louis Vuitton, the French luxury house, in 2012 and again in 2023 brought her dots onto handbags, clothing, shoes, scarves and even fragrances. Stores worldwide were transformed into polka-dot experiences, featuring giant inflatables and animatronic replicas of the artist painting dots on glass. Earlier, she partnered with Issey Miyake, the Japanese fashion designer known for avant-garde textiles, where she applied her dots to experimental garments. She also designed limited-edition skateboards for MoMA and created homeware accessories. These projects reflected Kusama’s belief that art should not remain confined to galleries but extend into everyday life.

L: Façade of Louis Vuitton in Paris, France (2023)
R: Issey Miyake A-POC x Yayoi Kusama (2000)

Books, Film and Storytelling

Kusama’s extraordinary journey has been documented in multiple forms. The children’s book ‘Yayoi Kusama: From Here to Infinity!’ introduced young readers to her story through colorful illustrations, while ‘Creating Infinity’ explored her partnership with Louis Vuitton. The acclaimed documentary ‘Kusama: Infinity’ (2018) offered a candid look at her battles with sexism, racism and mental health stigma, while highlighting her resilience and global success.

L: ‘Kusama: Infinity’ Documentary Poster (2018)
R: Illustration from ‘Yayoi Kusama: From Here to Infinity!’ Book

The Lasting Impact of Kusama’s Arts

In an era where art was often filtered through social media, Kusama’s installations remained profound. They were not only visually striking but also deeply moving, offering a chance to feel part of something infinite. The mirrored rooms and repeating dots served as reminders of smallness and belonging to a greater whole. Even for those who have never entered an Infinity Room, Kusama’s art carries the same message: we are all dots in a vast universe, fleeting yet connected, fragile yet infinite.

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